Friday, June 7, 2013

Maasai village

No Internet on the boat in Turkey, so no recent posts. 

We visited a Maasai village to see how the local locals live. It is certainly different. Our guide, Norman, is in blue below. The people we met all had Christian names to help us out :). The kid is the Czech kid in our group and he's wearing a lion head thingy. They kill lions when they attack the village / animals but you never eat wild animals. They only eat the meat they raise, beef, lamb and goat. 


They performed a local dance for us. Basically they sang/chanted and individually jumped high, repeatedly. That's Norman jumping. He is a teacher in the tribe. He left to go to school and college in Nairobi but then moved back. The school has over 100 kids and he pointed to a small building in the distance. I'm not sure how they fit so many or if there are even separate classes. 

And they wanted to get us to join in. 

Each village is made up of essentially one family, so you marry from another tribe. There were 8-10 huts made from sticks and mud and cow dung. There is one chief. He can have multiple wives. For each wife though, he must pay the parents 10 cows. The chief of this village had six wives....60+ cows! He's rich. The village will live here ten years. Then they burn it and move to another site. 

A two-day old lamb

This is inside the chief's hut and is where they cook. There was a room to sleep but also separate rooms for the lambs and cows to come in at night. The cows then get milked on the way out in the morning. There was no electricity and not much natural light came in. 

A house in progress...

The cow dung, wet and ready. 

There are almost 200 villages in the Maasai area. Each has a chief, midwife and a medicine man. Villagers only leave to sometimes attend school. But they always come back. It's not like leaving the Amish and being shunned. The Maasai just come back. They even had a government representative from the Maasai who on his government breaks went back to live in the village. 

In addition to meat, they eat milk and blood, some fruits, not many veggies. They said the grass is for the goats, not people :). The blood they drink/eat is from the cattle. They pierce it and take like a liter or more (maybe 3? I can't remember). In the mornings they will boil/bake it down so it's cake-like and eat it up. I did not try this :). 

One other interesting topic was circumcision. I asked Norman how he got rows of burns/scars on his arms/chest. He said it was from "practice". Circumcision is done during a 6am ceremony in front of all the men from your and surrounding villages. The boy is between 11 and 15 years old. There is no anesthesia or anything and these boys have to be cut without flinching. If you flinch, you are not considered a man and can never marry anyone. So to practice not flinching, they take a burning/smoldering stick to the boys' skin and get use to coping with the pain. Very interesting but I cannot imagine. 


Maasai Mara

Let me first just say that I'm blogging on the bus in Turkey from Pamukkale to Marmaris. It has wifi, tv on the back of your seat and a steward to provide a free beverage (glass of Pepsi) and free snack (bag of pretzels). It is pretty impressive and a nice way to travel. 

Last week in Kenya I started with a visit to the Maasai Mara reserve in southern Kenya (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maasai_Mara). It's almost 600 square miles and while not fenced in, the animals are protected from poachers in this area. However if they leave and attack people, the people can strike back. Thus, the main predator of the lions and cheetahs are us, humans. 

We did two drives here, the first in the late afternoon until sundown on the day we arrived and the second was a full day drive the next day. We includes me and three Czechs, a mom, her middle school age son and an older lady that was with them who I assumed to be grandma but she was not. The older lady did not speak or understand any English. The boy understood some (he's had it in school for like 3-4 years now). The mom understood most and spoke just a little. So, I did a lot of reading while they chatted :). 

The drive there was long and quite a bit of it was on gravel/dirt roads that were slow going. We camped in some tents that are permanently set up at the site and haven twin beds. They had showers and toilets on site but no electricity. We had a tour guide/driver and a cook who came along. There was a Maasai warrior who kept watch over us at night. 

The Maasai are the local tribe/ethnic group who still live quite a bit like how I imagine they lived a hundred years ago. We visited a village and got some background info. I may do a separate post on that because it was pretty interesting. 

We saw some good animals including three male lions on the first evening just as we were leaving (although they were a bit covered by the bushes).  There were elephants, zebras, water buffalo, a few wildebeest and more. Apparently I was a month too early and missed the wildebeest migration. The guide said it would have been a sea of black instead of a sea of grass.  It was hot in the sun, but a cool breeze made it not bad and it cooled down quite a bit in the evening. 

Here are some pics:

Young elephant 

My humble abode :) for two nights

Warthogs (aka Pumbas) 

One of four male lions we saw lazy-ing around on day 2

Our ceiling popped up so we could see better, nice breeze and no pictures through dirty windows

The animals got pretty close to the vehicles sometimes

Two of six lioness that our guide was first to spot off in the distance before we caught up

Getting some dirt to cool off

Lunch time!

A lonely lioness that I spotted! I was very excited :)

One of the giraffes, which seemed to move very gracefully

The zebras resting heads on each other's backs to keep an eye out for trouble

Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Turkey - I'm safe :)

Many people have seen (except me apparently) since around June 1st that there were/are protests going on around Turkey although it sounds like it started in Istanbul. As a result, I've gotten many notes to be safe while in Turkey.  Thanks for all those thinking of me :). 

These are local protests of the Turkish government from what I have heard. I was in the historic district of Istanbul today and perfectly safe. We just had a day tour and you would have no idea that anything is going on. There is one area where the protests were/are which is across a river (or some body of water) and I'm just going to steer clear of that area. 

I'm actually in Selçuk tonight, which was an hour's flight from Istanbul. Day tours the next couple of days. 

Africa resulted in tons of pictures. Many of those are either very similar or the animals are at a distance and hard to see. So it's taking some time to sort through and get a post up. Sorry!